Bespoke suit? No problem, with King & Allen.
They have been offering bespoke tailoring since 2003. But now that Lesbian and Gay weddings are legal, their bespoke services are being sought after by a wider range of people than ever before, and they were the creative geniuses behind Lucy Spraggan's wedding suit.
We spoke to Clare Mountain of King & Allen to get the low down on tailoring in a modern world and how important it is to get the perfect fit…
On suits and gender…
Historically, tailoring has been associated with men, and unfortunately, women who wore suits were considered out of the ordinary by the mainstream. However, these days, we are seeing a huge shift in the way that we dress. Tailoring has been wholeheartedly embraced by women and it looks amazing!
Partly, I think it’s down to accessibility. Up until recently, it was incredibly difficult to find suits for women that weren’t “business” suits. Even then, it was likely that they would be sold with a skirt or dress rather than a pair of trousers. Additionally, finding a women’s suit in the variety of cloths that were available in menswear was impossible.
These days, women’s tailoring offers a lot more options. Retailers are offering a wider range of colours and patterns in their tailoring, however, many of them are only selling skinny-fit suits, assuming that all women want to dress that way.
How are King & Allen challenging that?
As bespoke tailors, we understand that personal style is very important, so we work with our female clients to create exactly the silhouette they want for their suit, whether that’s slim and fitted or classic and relaxed. Because of this, many women feel comfortable coming to us, knowing that they can design their own suit, rather than having a style forced upon them.
On the perfect fit…
In order to wear a well-fitting suit, most men and women require tailoring, whether that’s by purchasing a ready-made suit and having it altered or by ordering a bespoke suit. After all, we all have unique body shapes!
The beauty of bespoke tailoring is that it accommodates all of the distinct quirks of the human body, whether it’s a dropped shoulder, round back or tilted pelvis. Often, people who don’t fit into the “standard” sizing used in suits off-the-peg can feel like there is something wrong with them. There isn’t - the problem is with the limited sizing available from many retailers.
On your wedding suit…
Your wedding suit is one of the most important pieces of clothing you will ever wear, so it is essential that you look and feel amazing in it!
When choosing your wedding suit, we encourage you to wear a suit that is a reflection of who you are. If you wear bright colours everyday, it would be a shame for you to feel as if you have to wear a navy suit on your wedding day. Go bright! Be yourself.
If you feel uncomfortable wearing clothing that fits close to the body, don’t force yourself to wear a very fitted suit. Wear whatever makes you feel at your very best.
If you choose to go bespoke with your wedding suit, your tailor should be able to happily accommodate all of your requirements, no matter how wacky! At King & Allen, we have created very unusual pieces for clients in the past, so whatever you can dream up, we can almost certainly create for you.
On tailoring for ‘men’ vs ‘women’…
In many ways, a bespoke suit is gender neutral. It has been created for the individual, rather than a specific gender. (Something which we more than understand here at GFW!) That being said, tailoring a bespoke suit for a woman can be very different to tailoring one for a man. Women’s body shapes can vary wildly compared to men’s.
That’s why we only use our Traditional Bespoke range with our female clients. This range is made how a suit on Savile Row is made, using a pattern that is completely unique to your body. It also includes a “baste” fitting, which allows the tailor to work with you to get the fit of the suit exactly how you want it before the suit is even fully constructed. Because of this attention to detail, we can achieve the best possible fit.
In regards to style, the options are endless. Just because you are a woman, it doesn’t mean you can’t wear a suit that is “masculine” in style. However, the difference between wearing a suit designed for a male body and a women’s suit with a masculine aesthetic is huge because the bespoke suit will work with, rather than against, your natural body shape.
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